Under The Praiano Sun
I have long been fascinated by the art of Italian ceramica since my earliest trips to Italy in 1997, 2000 and 2005. Thereafter I returned every year and would bring back a little souvenir, especially from the islands of Capri, Ischia and Procida near my husband’s hometown Pozzuoli. We often made a daytrip to the stunning Amalfi Coast and Vietri town, for a spot of lunch, Mediterranean sea breeze and si, la ceramica. My favourite find is a little hen jug that now holds my paintbrushes.
In the summer of 2018, I played tour guide to my best mates from JC and on our southern Italy itinerary, I booked a week’s stay at a gorgeous pool villa located on the cliffs of charming town Praiano along the Amalfi Coast. It was understated, less expensive and crowded and made a great base for exploring the famous coast. And it was at Praiano that I first came across Bob Art & Winery.
Michele, the ceramic artist, who is affectionately known as Bob (every Italian has a nickname) has a tiny crammed studio where I popped by every day, just to admire his whimsical creations and bask in the creative energy. His ceramic art also dotted the stoned walls and alleys of Praiano and his crowning glory is the Christmas presepi that greets you just before the first tunneled gateway to the town.
To me, Michele’s the incarnation of Geppetto the woodcarver of Pinocchio - shy, friendly, and there’s a certain calmness about him. His son, Stefano (who speaks a little English) and Michele’s effervescent wife, Flora, run a ceramic and wine / groceries / bus tickets / a-bit-of-everything shop by the main road below their apartment. You can’t miss the quirky blue and white shrine of a house dedicated to Napoli football club. I had to paint it and gave them a copy of the painting as a gift.
You can’t miss the iconic Bob Art & Wine’s blue and white casa at Praiano
Anyway to cut the story short, I unashamedly pursued them for an ‘apprenticeship’ and they said they were happy to welcome me back whenever I want to. So I did go back in the following year in May 2019 and left my son in my mother-in-law’s care for two weeks. That spring was very cold but I thoroughly enjoyed the chilly mornings walking to Bob Art’s studio from my B&B. It reminded me of my time WWoofing on Italian farms and afforded me a rare kind of solitude that I craved for.
For lunch, I was invited at their home and enjoyed Flora’s Praianese dishes like the stuffed lettuce ‘scarola ripiena’ with wet bread crumbs, olives, egg and capers. And in the evenings, I walked about town and ate at Stefano’s recommended eateries such as La Moressa (good pizzas and that view) and Kasai (delish pasta with squid). While I was dining alone at Kasai, Flora drove by, honked loudly and shouted ‘buon appetito Carla’ to me. She drove like she owned the town (probably) and also volunteered at the San Luca chiesa and gave me a tour of the chiesa and even showed me their antique relics, hidden from public view.
Michele and I would spend the whole day jamming and listening to the summer hits on the radio. Sometimes he’d show me how to craft all kinds of sea creatures like the octopus, squid, sea urchin etc. And he let me make new creations like whales, prawns and little limone earrings. One day, he asked me to help paint some of the boats, cups, saucers and ornaments which I took on enthusiastically.
Everyday tourists would pop by and buy something and I’d explain about Bob, the studio and the shop. You could see the fascination in their eyes; just like me the year before. The writer in me wanted to know more about his history and day by day, Michele shared his childhood memories and working experiences. I really enjoyed listening to him, imagining the world he lived in and how he came to be a ceramic maestro, although he’d wave it off humbly. He was 71 and getting on, and climbing those murderous steep steps to the studio is a daily feat. One day Stefano (his current apprentice) will have to take over him.
I compiled our conversations into an article with photos that I took, and gave it to Stefano to put it up at their shop and villa (above the studio) so everyone can read about their story. Good things must share. Here it is:
